It was 32 F/ 0 C, but I wouldn’t have known it had there not been snow covering the trail. I was drenched in sweat after hiking a little over two miles, gaining about 1,000 feet in elevation.

That’s when I smelled it — the smell of freshly baked goods coming from the Lake Agnes Teahouse.

The Lake Agnes Tea House sits next to — you guessed it — Lake Agnes.

Except Lake Agnes is at an elevation of 7,000 feet. There’s no running water or electricity. Everything has to be carried up on workers’ backs, trotted in via horse, or flown in on a helicopter.

Which probably explains why a PB&J sandwich costs $7.50 (Canadian).

The tea house staff are mostly university students who sleep in one of two teensy cabins next to the teahouse. Besides making outstanding tea and biscuits, they are also responsible for cleaning the outhouses and greywater system (yuck).

But the tea house serves over 50 varieties of tea, homemade tea biscuits, cookies, sandwiches, soup, and other tasty goodies. I can personally attest to the maple tea and tea biscuits with honey. Nothing tastes better after a hike uphill. I was just glad to get a spot inside because it was chilly next to the lake once we stopped hiking, though I imagine the porch is wonderful on a summer day.

The hike itself is not extremely strenuous. It’s just a constant uphill trail. There are amazing views overlooking Lake Louise, and the glacier-fed lake looks even bluer the higher you climb. Mirror Lake is a great stop along the way, but be careful once you get past it. The small lake marks the point where the hiking trail merges with the horse trail — watch your step!

If you make it to Lake Louise, definitely take the time to hike the Lakes Agnes Hiking Trail. The tea house is a great stop and if you feel up for it (we did after some rejuvenating tea), the Little Beehive Trail provides a stunning view overlooking the the valley below.